Actually Worth the Hype: Where to Eat in Vienna

I lived in Vienna for five years. In that time I went from deeply authentic local joints to the most hyped tourist spots in the city, and I experimented quite a bit. Here's the truth. These places are touristy, and I still end up back at them every single time I'm in Vienna.

Touristy was never the problem. Overrated is. These are the spots that survived five years of me trying to replace them. If I had exactly one day in Vienna, this is my blueprint, from breakfast to the last cocktail.

Breakfast: Palmenhaus (Burggarten)

I love starting my morning at Palmenhaus, a glass house in the Burggarten. It's a gorgeous old greenhouse built in the early 1900s for the imperial palace gardens, and it's full of massive plants and palm trees. It feels peaceful and elegant at the same time. I keep coming back for the selection: so many breads, a proper cheese selection, and eggs done basically any way you like. They're super accommodating with vegan, lactose-free and gluten-free options too. For me it's the ultimate high-vibe start to the day.

Schnitzel: Figlmüller (Wollzeile and Bäckerstraße)

Figlmüller is iconic and very traditional. Johann Figlmüller opened a small wine tavern on Wollzeile in 1905. Today there are two restaurants a few steps apart, the original and a second one on Bäckerstraße. The schnitzel is legendary, and it's what everyone queues for. One piece is literally as big as the plate. It covers the whole thing, and it's so thin I haven't seen anything like it anywhere else.

Book weeks in advance, or you'll queue outside for about an hour. If you don't want the schnitzel, the cordon bleu is a good alternative, filled with ham and cheese. Whatever you order, try the potato salad. It's made with broth, and the taste is really distinct. I love it.

The Smarter Schnitzel: Lugeck

My secret is going to Lugeck instead. It's Figlmüller's younger sister, run by the same family, and I actually prefer the vibe. It's fresh and high energy, Austrian tavern culture beautifully modernised, with much more space to breathe. You can still get the classic schnitzel or the cordon bleu here. I usually go for the glazed calf liver. It's perfectly seared and finished with a rich, glossy reduction that's dangerously addictive.

Kaiserschmarrn: Demel (Kohlmarkt and Stephansplatz)

Kaiserschmarrn is a non-negotiable piece of Austrian history, and Demel has been making sweets in Vienna since 1786. It's a k.u.k. court confectioner (kaiserlich und königlich, imperial and royal), which means it literally used to supply the imperial court. Sitting inside is honestly lovely. There's nothing like it with a proper Wiener Melange, the classic Viennese coffee, and a few other Austrian desserts on the table.

The queues get long, though, especially at the takeaway window on Kohlmarkt. Demel only started selling Kaiserschmarrn to go during the lockdowns, and it worked so well they never stopped. If you want to walk around with yours and skip the wait, go to their second shop inside the Haas Haus at Stephansplatz. I can usually grab it there without the crowd. Same iconic taste, just much smarter.

Cake: Aida Café (Stephansplatz)

Or go to Aida. There are locations all over Vienna, but the one at Stephansplatz is very nice and full of flowers. Every Aida is decked out in pink. It gives major Barbie vibes and a fun, girly energy, and the cake selection is very good.

Drinks with a View: Onyx Bar, DO & CO Hotel (6th Floor)

If you're into architecture, this one's a must. The hotel sits inside the Haas Haus, the glass building Hans Hollein put right opposite the cathedral in 1990. It caused a proper scandal when it opened. Go up to the Onyx Bar on the 6th floor and the view is completely insane. You're up close to the top of St. Stephen's Cathedral and its colourful roof, around 230,000 glazed tiles with the Habsburg double-headed eagle laid into them.

It's a bit pricier, but you don't need a full dinner. Grab a spot at the bar, order a drink and take in the view. It's a gorgeous way to spend the evening.

The Evening: Das Loft, Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom (18th Floor)

For the evening I love heading up to Das Loft, on the 18th floor of the Sofitel. It isn't your typical quiet fine dining spot. It's more chic club, with energetic music, and I think that's perfect for a night out. Just don't expect a refined dinner.

The beef tartare was rather mediocre, and the menu felt a bit limited. I did really like the complimentary foie gras amuse-bouche. You come here for the experience and for how it looks: the cocktails, the city lights, and the mind-blowing Pipilotti Rist ceiling. I've heard their brunch is super nice too, so that might be the way to catch the view by daylight. Like at most of the good-looking places, the food isn't the main sight here.